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Guilin, Yangshuo & the Li RiverThe towering limestone pinnacles of Southern China have inspired artists for centuries. The peaks hide numerous caves, some that have been turned into Disneyland-like attractions, while others offer hiking and pristine views of the patchwork countryside. Boat trips from Guilin, down the idillic Li River to Yangshuo, are a relaxing introduction to the region.
Yangshuo, a backpackers meccaThe Li River makes a peaceful, melodic trip past water buffalo lingering in the cool current and families working in verdant rice fields. Travelers can visit villages hidden in the riverbanks, cycle through the pristine countryside, and relax in a budget traveler's sanctuary. For those lucky enough to have several months, or years, to bum around the world, Yangshuo is the kind of place you come to chill for a few weeks and refresh before getting back on the road. Lodging is cheap, food is good and there are travelers from every corner of the globe, so information is abundant.
The Chinese are not exactly daredevils, in fact I would call them cautious and a bit timid, so you won't find many adventure travel operators, except in places like Yangshuo that get a lot of Western travelers. The countryside in this region is some of the most scenic in all of China and the perfect way to explore is on a bike. Small passenger boats are available for excursions to peaceful riverside villages, and during the warm summer months, there are also a few kayak, raft and inner tube rental operations on the Li River. The impressive limestone peaks offer numerous trails for hiking, and conceal hundreds of caves, some equipped with lighting and even elevators! The weather and terrain in Southern China is perfect for striking out on your own and seeing the real China.
Need to pick up a few gifts for friends and family you left at home? This is the place! The main street of Yangshuo is lined with small shops offering good prices on silk clothing, artwork, tribal crafts, etc., and they are all open late at night. If you are missing those "couch potato" nights in front of the TV at home, you will be happy to discover that several restaurants show American movies each night. (If you are glad to be away from the TV, then pay attention to which cafe you choose for dinner, the blaring English language movies can be very annoying!)
As for food, we did not expect our favorite Chinese meals to be eaten here in Yangshuo. The pedestrian area is lined with cafes serving up chop suey, milkshakes, spaghetti, and snake blood (an initiation rite for the backpacker crowd), while just a fews blocks over, the streets and merchants of a simple Chinese town go about their daily business.
I highly recommend an excursion to visit to one of the many small villages in the area. It gives you a chance to be a part of every day life, to interact, and to spread the wealth a bit. Many can be reached by bike, or small commercial river boats can take you farther afield. Each village has a weekly market on a different day, so try to schedule your trip to coincide. A pleasant option is to ride bikes one way, then take a boat back, or, better yet, spend a night or two in the village. Getting away from the main tourist areas yields the most fulfilling experiences, and is an important part of being what I call a "conscious traveler". Spending your money off the beaten path, (and conscientiously) helps to alleviate poverty and preserve the rural landscape and villages.
Cormorant Fishing on the Li RiverIf you head down to the river right around night fall, you can learn about an amazing local tradition. Each evening at dusk the fishermen of the Li River prepare for their traditional outing. Standing on long, narrow bamboo rafts with lanterns glowing on the bow and a team of Cormorant birds perched on the stern, they paddle out into the current. The trained birds take the place of nets and fishing poles. They dive off the raft and catch the prey, but a string around their neck prevents them from swallowing the fish, instead they are stored in the bird's throat. I was amazed when one bird deposited four fish into the basket! The birds can fish for about twenty years, or until their eyesight goes bad and they retire. Our guide explained that the birds remain with their owners and are treated 'like members of the family',each is known by name and by it's distinct personality. The Cormorant fisherman of the Li River have been the subject of many beautiful photographs and even a documentary film.
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