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 Julie's bali dispatches
Dispatch #1 :Surf's UP in Bali...
After 18 hours of flying from California, I have arrived in Bali! The trip on Eva Air was excellent. Eva offers an "elite economy" class - you pay a only few hundred dollars extra and you get a slightly bigger seat, with a little more recline and leg room. Inflight service in Evergreen is regular economy, but even in economy you get individual seat-back TVs. In premium, or business, "Laurel" class, you get completely spoiled with the new lie-flat seats (check which flight has these, some may not be equipped with them yet), and the superior food and drink choices. The airlines are making it much easier to be safe & comfortable! www.EvaAir.com
In some ways, Bali seems to be recovering nicely from the post-bombing slump in tourism. Even now in low season, the budget hotels I usually stay in are pretty booked, the streets are frenetic, the beach is busy - surfers are out for the good waves today, umbrellas and chaise lounges await sunbathers. If you are an up-market traveler, you can get good deals on villa rentals right now. It appears there were many built during the boom, and now there is a glut of fancy, foreigner owned villa vacation property on the island.
Last evening, just after sunset, a casual crowd gathered for what seemed to be a spontaneous performance of drummers, a belly dancer and flame throwers on the beach at Legian. Very cool! I had a fabulous dinner of fried fish with chili sauce, sauteed greens, stir fried vegies & rice for $3.50 in a local "warung", or food stall, then slept well in my quiet little bungalow. Jet lag has been amazingly minimal after such a long flight! After a cloudy morning, we now have scattered clouds offering respite from the hot sun and there is a delightful breeze fluttering the beach umbrellas.
That's all for now, I am moving onto another part of the island - more soon!
Selamat tinggal from Legian Bali! Julie
 Surf's Up - come on in!
 Flame Thrower
 Bali Bungalow
Dispatch #2 :
 Surf's Up - come on in! My new digs! Enjoying a peaceful little bungalow, or "villa", resort near the tourist center of Nusa Dua. The beach area is a solid row of huge resort complexes, one after the other, with a few small gems like this crammed in between. The best thing about Nusa Dua / Tanjung Benoa is the beach-front promenade - it extends for several miles in front of all the resort hotels - great for biking or running, with plenty of places to stop for a drink along the way! And, much to my delight, I was able to play a little 3 on 3 volleyball with some locals yesterday evening!
Tomorrow we will rent a car and brave the roads of Bali (they drive on the wrong side of the road, like the Brits and Australians) to explore the interior and the undeveloped western side of the island, which should get us away from the crazy traffic of Kuta and Nusa Dua. More to come....  Cocktails anyone?  For anywhere from $50. to $100. a night you can have a nice room like this with breakfast, pool, beach , etc. Tell me again, why do people go to Hawaii???  The Balinese kids are so cute and always happy - so far none have asked me for anything but my friendship. I have only once heard a child screaming here, and of course it was a Western kid having a tantrum. Have yet to see that in the local kids. I played with these kids for an hour or so the other day - "wheelbarrow" (remember that one?), handstands and a few yoga postures - we all had a ball!
Dispatch #3 :
The South West ShoreWe cruised into Perancak just in time to see the fishermen and their colorful fleet preparing to head out for the evening run.
 Spent the last week exploring the less traveled Western part of Bali. Did not see a single tourist for a couple of days - except at our hotels at night. Whether on a primary road or in villages, everyone waves and yells "hello!" All it took was a smile from me to elicit a genuine, beaming grin across faces young and old. People are happy to pose for pictures, but getting them to smile for the camera is a bit tougher.  Primary education is free in Bali, but the families must be able to afford the uniform - ALL school kids wear a uniform.
 It's not uncommon for a family of four to travel on a motor bike together.
Dispatch #4 :
North West BaliWe drove through the mountainous center of the island, past cloves and cacao drying by the roadside, to explore the North West Shore. This is the driest and poorest part of the island, and not visited by many tourists. This area is known for it's snorkeling and diving. The beaches in much of Bali are black sand.
Just outside Pemuteran, near the Matahari Beach Resort & Spa. 
The pool at the Matahari Beach Resort & Spa, a five star oasis 
The beach at the Matahari Beach Resort & Spa, a five star oasis  And kids at the local kindergarden built by the Matahari's German owners. Spent the last week exploring the less traveled Western part of Bali.
Dispatch #5 :Travels in East Bali - You wish you were here!
Fishing boats on the beach in Padangbai
OK, I have some catching up to do, so here we go... First off, I have to say that one of the most enjoyable aspects of Bali, besides the quick-to-smile, friendly locals, the sunsets and the climate, is the mix of nationalities that come here. There are expats and travelers from every corner of the world, in equal numbers. Right now I am eavesdropping on Italians behind me, Germans on my left and Norwegians on my right. It's a Muslim holiday in Indonesia, so there are also many families from Jakarta and other Indonesian islands vacationing in Bali right now. One thing you don't find is many Americans - boy are they missing out! 
Last week we traveled up the East Coast through the port town of Padangbai, which was not a highlight in itself - too hot, too many "mozzies", noisy at night, and not many cute places to stay (we ended up in a $6.00 basic room) - but as in the rest of Bali, the people made up for the shortcomings of the place. We stumbled upon a cute new cafe called "Ali in Bali" where we met the Dutch owner and ended up getting an education in world music at his other bar - "The Zen Inn". He has a big screen and the most entertaining, eclectic collection of music I have ever seen - an enjoyable way to spend an evening in Padangbai!
Next morning we stopped at a village where they weave the traditional Balinese "Ikat" fabrics. We strolled the dirt lanes, poked our head in wherever we heard the click-clack, click clack of the treadle looms, hung out at the corner store with the school kids, and watched the everyday goings-on of village life.
We took a serpentine, gorgeous road over the foothills of the volcano to arrive in Amed just in time to see the sun dip behind the Volcano. 
Once again, we stumbled upon (seems to be our forte) a great little bungalow resort with comfy verandas and a scrumptous sea breeze. I spent most of the night lying on the rattan lounger watching the stars move across the sky.
 Kembali Beach Bungalows, Amed, East Bali
Here is Julie in her new office - will she want to come back? Free WiFi, good lattes for $1.50, international newspapers, sea breeze, surf view... PRICELESS!
Dispatch #6 :Sanur: To escape the holiday crowds in the Kuta-Legian area, you can head over to Sanur, a much more laid- back beach resort. There is lovely promenade stretching for 5 kilometers, lined with restaurants offering toes-in-the-sand dining and great for cycling and strolling. Kuta-Legian does have all of the action (too much for many), but this is what is really lacking - a peaceful, car-free, strollable beach front.
  
The rooms and main pool at Segara Village, Sanur Beach, quite luxurious for well under $100.!
Dispatch #7 :Well, I discovered where all of the American's are hiding out! In Ubud, the cultural center of the island. I had only run into a handful of Americans, until I came to Ubud.
The last time I was here, 15 years ago, Ubud was a small village.
Today it is quite a cosmopolitan metropolis. A shopping mecca, and to offset the guilt of consumption, many opportunities for cultural experiences - from walks through the rice fields, dance performances, and classes in painting, cooking, batik, language, etc.
 Even with it's growth, it is still possible to find "cottages" with views in Ubud - this was the scene outside our window.  And the traditional ways actually do blend seamlessly with the modern times. This is a temple smack in the middle of Ubud, piled with offerings and incense. Whether it's a local "warung" (small restaurant), or the Polo store, there will be a well tended shrine, where prayers and offerings are made by the staff throughout the day. 
Ubud may be cosmopolitan today, but some business is still done the old fashioned way!
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